Building a Clay Lantern
Although this is titled building a lantern, many of the steps apply to constucting other types of clay creations. Keep in mind that this is my method and others may have variations but this is what works for me.
​
Step 1. Create a pattern for your lantern. You'll need 4 pieces for each wall, 4 pieces for the roof and one piece for the bottom. The wall pieces should be about 6 - 8 inches tall and you may want to make marks on the pattern to indicate which side will be the side with an opening for your light. Tape your pieces together to get an idea of how the finished lantern will look.
Step 2. Start with a big bag of clay! I generally use a speckled stoneware clay but the most important thing is that you use clay that is compatible with the firing you will be using. I use clay that can be fired to Cone 6 because that works best for me. I have used porcelain and it is a dream to work with as far as how it feels and looks with it but can be quite finicky! I buy my clay in 25 lb bags.
Step 3. Cut off a portion of the clay. You can use special wire cutting tools made for this or you can use fishing wire. You don't need an exact amount here but you don't want it too large. Start with what seems like 2 - 3 pounds.
Step 4. Roll the clay into a flat slab about 1/4 inch thick. I use a standard rolling pin (I bought a new one for the kitchen!) It takes a while to get the hang of rolling the clay. You want to pick it up and turn it from one side to another frequently and you want to be careful not to roll it thinner as you get to the end of each piece. You can use a stick on either side of the clay slab to make it the same thickness. You can google that technique if you have trouble keeping it an even thickness.
Step 5. Lather, rinse, repeat! After you roll each slab, place it on a large board that has been wrapped with plastic (I use large plastic trash bags) and then put newspaper in between each layer. I usually roll 4 to 5 pieces but just make sure there is enough for your pattern. When done, wrap in plastic and let sit overnight to firm up a bit.
Step 6. Take out the first slab and smooth it with a metal rib. You can place a textured piece of material or lace over the slab and use a rolling pin to gently impress the pattern on to your clay. (If you are going to texture the walls or roof with a piece of material I've found it best to do this before you cut your pieces so the pieces don't get distorted). Think about the placement of each of your pattern pieces before you texture. You could also texture after the pieces are cut if you are just doing imprints or stamps
Step 7. Place each of your pattern pieces on the clay and cut out each of your pattern pieces. If they are still soft you might want to lay them out and them get a little bit harder but if not, keep them covered with plastic.
Step 8. Start with one of your walls and cut out whatever windows or shapes you want for 3 of the walls. You can use scraps to test the look of the cutouts. Start about 3/4 to an inch below the top and keep the cutouts about 3/4 inch from the edges. This is so that when you put coils of clay inside to strengthen the clay doesn't show and also it helps keep the cut outs from getting smooshed! The bottom row of cutouts should be about 2 1/2 inches from the bottom to make sure you have room to add the floor. The floor won't be flat to the ground but will be about 1 1/2 inch higher. You can do this differently if you want and have the floor be all the way to the bottom.
Step 9. The 4th wall will have a larger opening so that you can put either fairy lights or whatever light source you want inside. Remember that clay shrinks so make your opening large enough. I usually do the top row or so of windows to match the other 3 walls and then cut out a rectangular shape for the lights. Once all pieces are cut out it's time to bevel and score. I use a wire loop tool for beveling and a scratching tool to scratch (score) each area that will be joined. Bevel and score each side of each wall including where the floor will be attached (see step 10). We'll get to the roof later.
Step 10. Note in the above picture that I've scratched not just the sides but about 1 1/2 inches from the bottom because that is where the floor will be attached. Our next step is to join. Lie one wall good side down on the table. Apply a mixture of vinegar and water with a paint brush along the edges of the first two pieces you will be joining. Some people use slip instead of vinegar. Gently press together the two pieces and then use a thin coil of clay to reinforce. Notice I have scratch marks where the bottom will be joined.
Step 11. Attach the bottom piece to the two walls making sure to scratch and vinegar the edges. Apply a thin clay coil at each seam and then add your 3rd piece. You should now have 3 pieces joined as well as the floor. Stand the piece up now to attach the 4th piece.
Step 12. The 4th piece is the most difficult to coil because it's harder to reach down inside and coil the seams. Once the 4 walls are joined, lay the piece down, put your initials on the bottom and look over each seam both inside and out. Make sure they are joined and no openings visible by smoothing any seams with your fingers.
Step 13. Construct the roof in the same way by beveling and scoring each piece. Apply the vinegar water to each piece before attaching and gently pressing each piece together. Once all 4 pieces are joined, coil to reinforce. The coils inside the roof will not be visible. Place the roof on top, looking at it from all sides and making any necessary adjustments. Scratch and vinegar to attach using extra clay or coils if necessary. No matter how careful I am, this part always seems to be a little wonky but just keep pressing and shaping and be sure to look at it from all angles. Once assembled have fun with adding any extra embellishments!
Step 14. Let your piece dry. Generally I let it dry for about a week although sometimes 4 or 5 days is enough.
Step 16. Bisque fire. Then glaze!
Step 17. Fire your piece! You can use either battery operated fairy lights or led lights. You can also use a candle if your piece is at least 6 inches tall. The downside of using a candle is that it will eventually get a little sooty inside. If you do use a candle make sure to have it in a small glass container.
Tips
• When joining pieces try and support one of the pieces with your hand to keep it from distorting.
• When coiling the seams use a tool first to push the clay in and then smooth with your fingers. I use a tool similar to a popsicle stick but slightly smaller and rounded.
• When doing the window cutouts, I set the first one next to the next one and line them up so the windows will be along the same line. Otherwise, there’s a tendency for things to start getting crooked!
• No need to get carried away with the beveling. A slight bevel should be good enough.
• Keep a spray bottle of water and spritz your piece when needed to keep from getting dry
• Keep pieces you’re not working with under plastic, so they don’t dry out.
• Test out window ideas and texture on scraps
• I make my cutouts from the side of the clay that will be showing (outside wall)
• If I’m making a shingle roof I will add a little row of shingles along the seams. If it’s a smooth roof you could add an extrusion along the seams.